05 July 2012
Typical Irish breakfast again: orange juice, tea, omelette (sans cheese), rashers, grilled tomato, sauteed mushrooms. Plus two bananas. The eggs were totally free-range from the hens the b&b people own--best I've ever tasted.
Detour after Ballingeary to the Guagan Barra national forest. This place is MAGICAL. Picture above taken there. If you're ever coming to southwest Ireland, GO THERE. Spend half a day hiking and the night in Corinn's B&B in Ballingeary (also cool in that it's in gaeltacht territory). Don't drive thru the park. Cycle at very least. I'm kicking myself now that I didn't think to film any of the 45 minutes or so I spent there... Got contourROAM out after I'd started leaving the park. So it's mostly a secret... because... you need to come see it yourself? It's my favourite landscape in Ireland so far at any rate.
Today was more tiring than the past few days for some reason. I wasn't making it all the way up hills without stopping for breathers; had to get off bike to rest a lot. Once even went off the road to lay down for 15 min, and had to clear a patch out of some thorns to do it. I think it's because I didn't have a proper lunch today, neglecting to get food in Glengariff because all I saw on the road were sandwhichy places and a Spar.
I don't have the roads to myself either, unlike most of what I've done so far. I hate cars and trucks and getting passed by them so much. I've never held one up for more than 60 seconds while oncoming traffic clears, and they usually pass me leaving plenty of space, but it's the noise and the wind and the obnoxious aura that surrounds them. I dunno.
Adrigole to Castletownbere was a bit of a slog on my faltering legs. Kept eyes out for campsites but it's too built up round here. I'm staying in the Old Convent hostel which I actually really like. I think it's still in the spirit of monasticism to convert the old cells into low-cost accomodation. Also I ended up with a two-person room to myself which is nice.
Tomorrow I want to circle Beara but instead of returning to Castletownbere like the book says, continue onward to Kenmare. From there we'll see.
P.s. Those of you reading these daily posts, btw, feel free to comment. If you ask anything or suggest a topic, I'll get an email and can then address it in a future post.