09 July 2012
(I just realised that in my past few posts the tenses might be a bit confusing in how they switch from present to past and back again. What I usually do is start the post in the morning with a paragraph or two, then get going, maybe add a little more at lunch if I've got something in my head, and finish the post up when stopped for the evening. I try to keep the tenses sensical but of course one's instinct is to use the present when speaking of the present, etc.)
It was pissing rain all morning again and the clouds were hanging down low between the hills. Went off the main road to cycle around the foothills of Macgillycuddy's Reeks to see some nice, if wet and shrouded, views of Lough Acoose and Caragh. I was mostly out of traffic on back roads until I cleared Lough Caragh. Even saw a red fox trotting along the verge until a van scared it into the bushes. Lots of mossy forest and crossing streams on little bridges. I never get tired of that.
Back on the main ring of Kerry road, the N70, just before Glenbeigh, where I had lunch. Most expensive lunch yet, but good. Smoked salmon salad with a HUGE portion of salmon. I explained my allergies to the waitress but the first plate came out with couscous on it and I had to send it back since couscous is not safe for celiacs. Felt like a jerk; argh, I hate food intolerances. Met a fellow gluten-free guy in the restaurant tho'. American on a hiking tour. Sipped tea and talked to him and two other girls for a nice lunch.
Lots of traffic until Cahersiveen, but wonderful views of the patchwork hills and the sea. Could only just see the sun on the horizon: a sliver of ocean glowing white were it kisses the sky. I also passed thru/nearby Kells, which was cool metaphysically, if an unremarkable place these days.
Overall today was pretty cold, especially on the windy, wet descents. It's pretty windy tonight. I hope it blows all the rain and mist away. (...wishful thinking, I know.)
I'm in the Sive Hostel in Cahersiveen now. It's €15, but certainly not twice as good as the last place. Location location. And this is the first time I've had to lock my bike up outside, come to think of it. The B&Bs all have garages or sheds and the hostels had storage rooms or let me carry the bike up and shove her under the bed. She's locked to a pole in the back garden but I feel sorry for her. Poor BK out in the wind and only kindasorta out of the rain.
I think it might be the first time I'll have to share a hostel dorm with a man, as well. Some French hetero couple were in here chillin' when I came in. Blasting music on a phone and not really paying attention to me. Whatevs.
Traditional Irish music in the pub across the street tonight. I was gonna go have a pint of cider and listen but then I decided it reminds me too much of an ex-beau and I'm heartbroken again because that's the way it is. I can hear it from here tho'. At least there's no banjo.
Daaaang my back's been itching like crazy past few days, and of course just in the spots I can't reach properly...
Going to sleep now 'cause I'm tired. Sneem tomorrow, which will be a short day. If there's no hostel I might try to ask if I can camp in the field of the farmer who's friends with the brother of the lady I met in Killarney two days ago. We'll see.