Day six

Waking up with headache not good sign. Ah well. Caffeine will fix it.

Breakfast: orange juice, tea, fried eggs, bacon, tomato. I'll probably have an apple as soon as I start rolling as well. Having a hot breakfast is nice and all, but my food-intolerance-induced paranoia won't let me feel completely comfortable with food coming out of someone else's kitchen. Even if it is all just fried stuff that really shouldn't have touched bread or milk. (one thing I do like: I don't have to ask about what kind of oil things were fried in, 'cause you can't really get soybean oil here; it's all sunflower or rapeseed oil.) Been okay so far at least. I would prefer hostels if I could find them, tho. Should be a few in Killarney actually, if I can make it that far tonight.

Still overcast this morning, but not raining right now. I'll be prepared for it at any rate. It's funny tho, how my instinct is to get out of the rain immediately, even if I have all the proper gear on and am not cold. Back in the mountains on day three, when it really started coming down, I sat under some pine trees on an embankment for a while, out of the worst of it but slowly getting colder from lack of movement. There was no real reason to stop other than some unconscious aversion to heavy rain. Do you guys think this is something everyone has in common? Some sort of human instinct developed as soon as we invented/discovered watertight shelters? Or is it just me?

(Andy, to answer your question on my last post: the rain is still typically Irish in its frequency, but it was worse in the mountains for sure.)
--
Mist and light rain all morning. I know the ring of Beara is supposed to be amazing and all, but I actually think the coast road from Lauragh to Tuosist is nicer. Flatter, too. Nice views of the sea and opposite coast, and a bit of lush forest as well.

Sun broke thru the clouds just before Kenmare, where I stopped for a delicious quinoa and egg salad, along with gluten-free biscuits and an organic banana from a health food store. Kenmare--in fact, this whole peninsula--was full of cyclists doing the Ring of Kerry charity cycle. It's a 180 kilometre cycle starting and ending in Killarney. I'm going to do roughly the same route myself, but over three days instead of one.

Today however I met them all in Kenmare--thousands of them. The N71 north to Killarney was closed to traffic just for them, which was brilliant. I joined in on the last 30 kms of their route. From Kenmare there's a long, steady uphill of 10 km thru Moll's gap, which of course I did very slowly and was passed by just about everyone. Those I did pass, I had to remind myself they'd just done 150 kms and I'm nothing special after only 50 :P

The real fun began at the downhill all the way to Killarney. I strapped my ROAM to my handlebars and tried to film some of it; we'll see if it turns out. I felt like I was on my own little tour de Ireland, haha, passing everyone, zooming along due to how heavy my loaded bike is compared to theirs. It was like 20 kms of almost pure downhill and I was reaching 45 kph for a lot of it. Doing that road car-free was such a blessing. And being around all those cyclists gave me tons of refreshing energy, too. They'll talk to you for a spell, encourage you, cheer for you. One guy I met, talked to, and passed, later passed me resting and shouted, GO COLORADO!

We reached Killarney in style and I was shunted to the finish line with all the others even tho' I hadn't started at the start. Felt a bit silly going with them on my bike loaded down with gear etc. Of course a lot of people tho't I'd gone the whole way with it... I explained to people when I could, but again, we're talking thousands of cyclists. I did feel a bit of a hero. Sprinting finish. My total mileage today was only about 80 km tho'.

Town is full of cyclists now, resting their weary legs. Three hostels I checked were full up. I'm in Paddy's Palace now, right on the main drag, with my bike shoved up under the bed in a four-bed room. Other girls here are American too. Friendly.

Tomorrow will be a rest day so I'm booked in for two nights. Means tomorrow is sleeping in! I'll still post a little something tho'. Not sure how I'll spend my rest day yet.

Pax.

Day five

Waking up naturally around 8 these days (lingering in bed for half an hour or more still tho).

Breakfast: six slightly burnt maple-cured rashers, tea, bowl of gluten free pasta with bottled coconut curry sauce (leftovers from supper last night). I really like this hostel. Smells old. Has history. People in charge are wonderfully quirky. I didn't check out till noon today. (picture is a cat chillin in the kitchen window at hostel--I left it a scrap of bacon)

Day started out wonderfully sunny. Nice easy hills to Dursey island to see the cable car and all. Then made the mistake of trying to cycle the Beara way, which is more of a hiking trail. Pushed my bike up most of it. Views were spectacular tho. Then it turned to chunky gravel and I had to push the bike up AND down for a while, wasting a lot of time. Finally hit a car road and sailed into Eyeries, one of the cutest towns ever... Brightly coloured buildings, flowerboxes. From there I went to do the highly-recommended Ring of Beara... And of course it starts spitting rain and gets dark. The views are amazing of course, as everyone says, but the road is very hilly: lots of short, steep hills that you need your lowest gears for, and sometimes have to sprint pace to keep moving. Stayed in the saddle but took lots of breathers and my glutes are crazy sore now haha.

I wanted to make it to Kenmare today, then realised I couldn't and tho't, okay, Lauragh then. ...I'm actually stopped on the Ring of Beara about five kilometres from Ardgroom >_<; ... It was getting late and very wet so I rolled up to the first B&B I saw, looking like a drowned rat, and asked them, where can I stay for only €35, since that's all the cash I have on me? Guy obviously wrestled with himself for a second, since most B&Bs only take singles for €45, but watching the rain drip off my helmet into my face he said, well, sure, I'll take you for €35. And they're super friendly these guys, have Irish music playing and a sort of I'm-visiting-my-grandparent's-house decór. Sea Villa B&B on the Ring of Beara. Cycle and hillwalker friendly. Give 'em business if you're ever around here... To make up for the discount they gave me :P

I do feel kind of silly hauling all this camping stuff around, making hills more painful (I'd love to come try the Ring of Beara on an unloaded bike sometime)--when I'm not even using it. But I keep telling myself, you're only on day 5 of 30. Plenty of time for camping coming up. I've only budgeted €33 a day tho so I need to start camping soon... And probably figure out how to set up camp in the rain without getting the inside of my bivvy bag wet.

But you know, this is my vacation and I can afford to go over budget if that's what happens. I'm going to enjoy myself. I like camping, but not in certain places or conditions. So I'll do what I want each night. This island is beautiful and I'll never get enough of that. S'what I'm here for.

Pax.

Day four

My things didn't dry out all the way overnight, haha. Ireland is never dry. My shoes are still damp, but they washed my clothes here so those are fresh at least. Everything important is in waterproof bags. Internet a few days ago said it wasn't really supposed to rain today, but the sky seems to disagree right now...

Typical Irish breakfast again: orange juice, tea, omelette (sans cheese), rashers, grilled tomato, sauteed mushrooms. Plus two bananas. The eggs were totally free-range from the hens the b&b people own--best I've ever tasted.

Detour after Ballingeary to the Guagan Barra national forest. This place is MAGICAL. Picture above taken there. If you're ever coming to southwest Ireland, GO THERE. Spend half a day hiking and the night in Corinn's B&B in Ballingeary (also cool in that it's in gaeltacht territory). Don't drive thru the park. Cycle at very least. I'm kicking myself now that I didn't think to film any of the 45 minutes or so I spent there... Got contourROAM out after I'd started leaving the park. So it's mostly a secret... because... you need to come see it yourself? It's my favourite landscape in Ireland so far at any rate.

Today was more tiring than the past few days for some reason. I wasn't making it all the way up hills without stopping for breathers; had to get off bike to rest a lot. Once even went off the road to lay down for 15 min, and had to clear a patch out of some thorns to do it. I think it's because I didn't have a proper lunch today, neglecting to get food in Glengariff because all I saw on the road were sandwhichy places and a Spar.

I don't have the roads to myself either, unlike most of what I've done so far. I hate cars and trucks and getting passed by them so much. I've never held one up for more than 60 seconds while oncoming traffic clears, and they usually pass me leaving plenty of space, but it's the noise and the wind and the obnoxious aura that surrounds them. I dunno.

Adrigole to Castletownbere was a bit of a slog on my faltering legs. Kept eyes out for campsites but it's too built up round here. I'm staying in the Old Convent hostel which I actually really like. I think it's still in the spirit of monasticism to convert the old cells into low-cost accomodation. Also I ended up with a two-person room to myself which is nice.

Tomorrow I want to circle Beara but instead of returning to Castletownbere like the book says, continue onward to Kenmare. From there we'll see.

Pax.

P.s. Those of you reading these daily posts, btw, feel free to comment. If you ask anything or suggest a topic, I'll get an email and can then address it in a future post.

Day three

Breakfast: bacon, 2 fried eggs, tomato, mushrooms, tea, orange juice.

Trip as far as Milstreet uneventful. (Cheers to the guy there who gave me some oil for my squeaky chain.) Ate supervalu salami and gluten-free biscuits for lunch. Lashing rain in the Derrynasaggart mountains--of course it started as soon as I was in the middle of nowhere, relying on my compass to pick the right overgrown sheep roads becase I was off the map and the instructions in my book were too vague (as long as I was going roughly southwest I was okay). Long treacherous descent in the rain toward Ballyvourney. I wouldn't want to go 40 kph on those roads in a car, much less on a bike in the soaking wet. But you can only pull so hard on the brakes...

About halfway down, there were these three lost sheep trapped on the road between two fences. I ended up basically chasing them downhill half a kilometre before they panicked and ran headfirst into a fence and I managed to get around them. Poor things :(

Didn't even know if I was on the right road or not till I was suddenly dumped into civilisation again. Went to buy skittles (been having two small packets a day since I started) and everyone was speaking in Irish! They spoke English to me of course but it was cool hearing them just naturally converse with each other, buying groceries and so on. (Nota Bene to my American peeps: "Gaelic" is actually Scottish; Irish is just Irish, or Gaelige (gale-guh) if you want to be fancy.)

Back into the mountains and lashing rain again from Coolea to Ballingeary. Poorly-surfaced sheep roads. At one point I descended into a valley with mountains jutting up on three sides and didn't know how I was supposed to get past without ditching the bike and turning into a mountain goat... But then the road curved around into some trees and I started climbing out of it without even realising.

I really want to start camping in these glorious piney woods around here, but my personal rule is not to set up camp when it's actively raining. Don't mind if it rains on me once I'm tied up in my bivvy bag but when I'm soaked to the bone and can't change into dry clothes before crawling in... I'll go b&b. This one, Corinn's in Ballingeary, is REALLY NICE btw. Why are hotels more expensive when b&b's tend to be so much nicer?

Toward the sea tomorrow. Slightly shorter day.

Pax.

P.s. Lemme know if adding a picture to this post worked. If it did I'll try to put one every day.

Day two

Today promised to be very wet, at least around Lismore. I'm glad I slept in a real bed. I think as long as I'm on my period I probably will. I could've slept forever longer but onward to Mallow! Along the river. Y'know, I like the sea and all, but I think I like rivers and forests better.

Breakfast: two overripe bananas, orange juice, tea, three rashers (slices bacon), two eggs. I like how they don't even ask how you want your eggs done, 'cause soft and slightly runny is the way they're supposed to be.

Pissing rain all the way from Lismore to Fermoy--but the glens and views and quiet roads made up for it. The mossy, ferny glens here are meant to glisten and drip with moisture. The hills seem magical, draped in mist and fog.

I did buy some waterproof shoe covers in Fermoy tho, and a cycle computer to replace my broken one, altho I think this one's numbers read a little high. My shoes are soaked but hopefully they'll dry out all the way overnight. Everything else is quick drying synthetic materials.

Cheers to the guy in Lismore who got me some water in the fountain; to the waitress in Fermoy who helped me get a safe and tasty meal; to the lady in Killavullen who when I asked her for directions invited me in for a cup of tea; to the lady outside of Supervalu who suggested this B&B. And of course to everyone who chats with me, asks me how far I've come/where I'm headed, laments the rainy weather with me.

Hot bath tonight; hot breakfast in the morning. My legs are weakening, but knees feel okay, hopefully after the first week of cycling it becomes routine. Today was a short easy day, good for a second day. Tomorrow will be harder.

Pax.

Day One

Breakfast: butternut squash, red bell pepper, leftover chicken. The door is locked and everything electrical is off. I'm still amazed how when I tell everyone I'm going to do something, I go and do it.

Nice Irish start to the day today--pissing rain. Sun when I reached Carrick-on-Suir. Marbled skies above the fern-filled forests and twisting streams, engorged rivers. Ride under the dark clouds and you'll get wet. Cross under the blue skies and the sun will dry you off again.

Cheers to the fella in the blue car who apologised to me for the weather; to the guy who helped me find a toilet in Clonmel; to the hotel receptionist guy who chatted with me and helped me find my road before going back to watch more Tour de France. Human beings are so cool.

I'm exhausted. Long sustained climb today across knockmealdown mountains thru the Vee. Climbing there was like ascending thru a tropical rainforest. Everything moist and lush. The whole hillside was cascading water. Tropical except for the pine trees. Then you pass the treeline and everything is barren bogland, grass soggy with peat-brown water overflowing everywhere. I tried to rest and eat before the climb but the biting midges found me and chased me up the mountain. (I think I ate a lot of those things today.)

Hot shower long sleep stretches breakfast and another day. This island is glorious.

Pax.

gear checklist

Below is a detailed, thorough list of what I am bringing on my Irish cycle tour. This is as much for me to double check things as it is for anyone who might be curious:

bike specific/maintenance

- rear panniers
- hi-viz rain covers for panniers
- saddlebag and handlebar bag
- Kryptonite bike lock
- multi-tool
- 2 spare chain links
- tyre levers
- spare tube
- puncture repair kit
- frame-mounted pump
- cycle computer
- red flashing rear light
- removable white front light that doubles as a torch
- velcro reflective strips (to wear or put on panniers)

cooking and food

- lightweight cooking stove and gas canister (lasts roughly 4 hours)
- lighters
- one large pot for cooking
- one plastic cup
- two sporks
- 1 one-litre plastic foldable water bottle
- 2 frame-mounted water bottles
- gluten-free crackers
- sports drinks, tinned fish, metric ton of trail mixes (will grocery shop on the road as well)

sleep

- one fully waterproof bivouac bag
- one season 2 synthetic sleeping bag
- one sleeping bag liner that adds up to 10 degrees of warmth (just in case)
- one lightweight foam mat for insulation from the ground

clothing

- two waterproof bags to keep it all in
(on the bike)
- helmet
- 1 pair pearl izumi droptail bib shorts
- 3 shortsleeve base layers
- 2 cycling jerseys
- sports bra, socks
- buff multi-purpose kerchief thing
- merino arm warmers
- cycling gloves
- regular shoes (due to knee problems, will not be using clipless pedals)
- goretex waterproof rain jacket
(off the bike)
- underwear
- knee braces
- one pair of normal trousers
- swimming trunks (paired with bra or base layer for swimming)
- fleece vest
- thermal base layers for sleeping

electronics

- contourROAM camera and accessories
- sony camera
- cell phone
- spare cell phone
- chargers for all of the above
- all in a ziploc bag

toiletries/hygiene

- travel towel
- toothbrush and non-fluoride, swallowable toothpaste
- deodorant (baking soda base)
- face lotion for dry skin
- LUSH ultrabalm for saddle chafing
- moist toilet tissue
- cotton reusable pad and menstrual cup
- regular tissue packs
- sports sunscreen
- hand sanitizer
- chlorine dioxide water purification drops
- physio tape for my knees
- first aid kit, including

• lots and lots of panadol (tylenol)
• emergency ibuprofen and immodium
• lots and lots of plasters (band-aids)
• antiseptic wipes, bandages, dressings, etc
• emergency blanket
• rubber gloves
• compass
• knife
• safety pins, tweezers
• candles
• storm matches
• whistle
• first aid booklet and emergency contact numbers

other

- journal/sketchbook (in a ziploc bag)
- cycling Ireland book
- maps
- military compass
- money belt, passport, keys
- personal alarm
- Irish tin whistle
- lengths of multipurpose twine